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TICONDEROGA 



PAST AND PRESENT 



xMIXED; 



A Companion to "Lake George, Illustrated." 

Being a History of Ticonderoga — Illustrated with Etch- 
ings, AND containing A MaP OF THE RuiNS OF TO-DAY. 



/ 

S. R. STODDARD. 



A 



ALBANY: 
WEED, PARSONS AND COMPANY, PRINTERS. 

iS73. 



Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year eighteen hundred and 
seventy-three, 

By S. R. STODDARD, 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



WEED, PARSONS* CO., 

PRINTERS AND STEREOTYPERS , 

ALBANY, N. V. 



.-^^ 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

OVERLAND 5 

The Model Stage Man 6 

Baldwinianisms 7 

Barnum = 7 

Pippins 7 

A Passage at Arms 8 

The Upper Falls 9 

Alexandria 10 

Lord Howe 1 1 

TiCONDEROGA : Roads 13 

" A Great Natural Curiosity " 14 

Another 15 

Village of Ticonderoga 15 

The Old French Lines 16 

Abercrombie's Defeat 17 

The Muddy Little Boy 19 

Baldwin Again 20 

His Great Affliction 21 

A Blissful Future Foreshadowed 22 

Discoveries : A Retrospect 23 

Adam 23 

Noah 23 

The Magi 24 

The Northmen 24 

Chris 24 

Other Discoverers 25 

The Pocahontas-Smith Affair 26 



iv Contents. 

Discoveries — (Concluded) : Page. 

Puritans Discovered 27 

Henry Hudson 28 

Samuel Champlain 29 

Early Battle — 1609 30 

Carillon 34 

Fort Ticonderoga 34 

Meaning of the Name 35 

History previous to the Revolution 35 

The Green Mountain Boys 37 

Ethan Allen 38 

Allen's Narrative .• 39 

Capture of Ticonderoga by Allen 41 

Mount Defiance 46 

Capture of Ticonderoga by Burgoyne 47 

Peace 49 

Fort Ticonderoga Hotel 50 

Map of the Ruins, 1873 51 

Present State of the Ruins 52 

The old Fort Well 52 

The old Soldier 52 

The Covered Way 53 

The Barracks 53 

A Difference of Opinion 54 

Grenadier Battery 55 

Mount Independence 55 

The Underground Rooms 56 

Outer Defenses 58 

A Picture 59 

The Parade 62 

The Sally Port 62 

A Tradition 63 

Tremble Meadow 64 

Good Night 65 

Contents of Lake George. Illustrated 67 



TICONDEROGA 



OVERLAND. 




ANDERERS still, we have threaded 
the silvery pathway of the Horican, 
and are drifting idly toward the gray 
old ruins of the forest stronghold, 
venerable in its departed grandeur, 
crowned with the wild legends and 
historical associations that cluster around its 
crumbling battlements and telling its story of loves 
and hates, of hopes and fears, of the glittering 
pomps of warfare, of booming cannon and the roll- 
ing drum, of glad pasans of victory, the solemn dirge, 
of death. Of earthly plans, of ambitions wild, of the 
arrogant assumption of puny man, and the love of 
forgiving Nature, who tenderly covers over the scars 
and hides the ruined hopes under a mantle of living 
green. 

The trip overland from Lake George to Lake 
Champlain cannot, strictly speaking, be called a 
green spot in the memory, for my recollection of 
the place is that it almost always rains, or has just 
been doing so, in which case the spots are a decided 



6 TiCONDEROGA. 

clay color ; but they who fail to take it in are, to 
say the least, unfortunate, and miss one of the finest 
features of a trip to Ticonderoga, for there are more 
recollections piled into the hour occupied in cross- 
ing than days spent elsewhere. 

Five great box-like stages, one baggage wagon, 
twenty-two horses and six drivers waited for us at 
the foot of Lake George, as the little steamer came 
to rest against the dock, and we passed out over 
the plank to the clay-bespattered platform, where 
stood the driver-in-chief, with always a pleasant 
word or a happy retort at his tongue's end, and a 
fund of information at the disposal of any who might 
take the trouble to ask for it ; a genial, obliging, 
gentlemanly man ; the joy of seekers after knowl- 
edge ; the terror of those who know too much, and 
the admiration of unprotected females, Avho, blessed 
with a multitude of years and bundles, have been 
robbed and execrated everywhere else in conse- 
quence thereof; one who transports his passengers 
with safety and wit, and actually seems to think 
them possessed of privileges which a stage driver 
is bound to respect. In short, it is " Baldwin," and 
that tells it all, for every body knows him. 

" Mr. Baldwin, I presume," said a young man, 
with a smart air, approaching the veteran. 

"At your service, sir." 

*' My name is Smith.' 



Baldwinianisms. 7 

''Ah! Your fame has preceded you, sir; you 
are spoken of at some length in the city directory. 
Hope you are feeUng well." 

" Quite so, thank you. May I venture to inquire 
how the animals are getting along?" 

" Certainly ; quite naturally. They are doing 
very well, considering the depth of the mud. I 
have been very fortunate so far, sir; never have 
lost an animal yet, although they often get in out 
of sight, in which case we take their bearings, and 
raise them at our leisure." 

" I do not refer to your horses,'" said the young 
man, with a quizzical look at the great, red stage, 
and coming to the point at once : '' But do you 
know, sir, that you and your caravan remind me of 
Barnum with his cages of wonderful wild animals." 

" Can't see the least resemblance, my dear sir," 
said Baldwin; "for Barnum carries his animals 
inside, while mine usually ride on top. Climb up, 
if you please." 

After we were fairly under way a gentleman 
asked Mr. Baldwin if he was any relation to the 
Baldwin apple. 

" Yes, sir : we are first cousins." 

"Ah! I am delighted to know it. I'm Mr. 
Pippin." 

" Proud to make your acquaintance, sir," said 
the Baldwin; " happy to know that we both belong 



"8 TiCONDEROGA. 

to the same great family ; but I have noticed, I am 
sorry to say, that pippins, while outwardly fair to 
behold, are usually rotten at the core." 

Pippin was dried apples for the rest of the 
journey. 

Immediately after the close of the late unpleas- 
antness at the south the country was full of 
shoulder-straps and bullion, and almost every little 
hamlet boasted its General — a Brigadier at least. 
One day, at Ticonderoga, one of these titled gentle- 
men might have been, and was, seen taking posses- 
sion of a top seat on one of Baldwin's stages, 
considerably elevated, spiritually as well as bodily, 
and evidently anxious to match his wit against that 
of the noted joker. He opened the engagement by 
inquiring if Phil Sheridan had not passed that way 
in his recent trip through the country, and was 
told that he had. 

" Well," said he, '' how was the General at the 
time? he's rather given to the demi, isn't he? " 

" Do you mean diQuii-john ? " 

'' Yes ! " 

" Well, I don't know, but he may be," said Mr. 
Baldwin, " its a common affliction among my mili- 
tary passengers." 

"Come, come!" said the General, producing a 
pocket-flask, and offering it, evidently feeling that 



A Passage at Arms. 9 

his opponent's remarks were rather ponited, ** take 
a drink, and let's call it square." 

"No, sir!" said he, "I do not use the stuff; 1 
propose to live without it, and die with my wits 
about me." 

" Very good, if a man can't stand it, he'd better 
not try. Von are a good man ; a moral man ; and a 
xQ-markably good-looking man, I must confess ; but, 
say, how is it, does it take a YQ-markably good-look- 
ing man to make a stage-driver?" 

"Yes, sir!'' said the remarkably good-looking 
man, evidently on his mettle, " It takes a man for a 
stage-driver, but any thing under heaven will do 
for a General, now-a-days ! " 

We mount to the top of the hill, where we must 
bid adieu to the silvery waters, and a lovely scene 
of sloping hillside, valley and mountain, opens up 
before us. Then down the road we go to the 
corner, where, turning to cross the bridge, above 
the falls, we pause a moment and look around. 

Here the waters of the lake that have moved 
sluggishly along between their low banks begin to 
ripple and gurgle as if they heard the music, and 
were hurrying gleefully onward to join in the glad 
anthem of the sounding waters below, and pass- 
ing under the bridge, rest a moment in their 
course, then, flashing and foaming, plunge down- 
ward, in a succession of leaps, until they rest under 



lO TiCONDEROGA. 

the cloud of spray at the bottom. Now, singing 
through the meadows, dancing over the stones, 
sweeping around to the right, they go, ever hurry- 
ing, never resting, until they gather for their final 
leap over the outcropping ledges at the lower falls 
that separates the mass of water into threads of 
shining silver and myriads of glittering pearls. 

Here is one of the best mill privileges in the 
world, furnished with a uniform supply of Avater, 
through drouth or flood, from the never failing 
reservoir above, making a descent of over two 
hundred feet in going a little more than a mile, 
while large vessels can be brought up to the 
very foot of the lower falls, and laid against the 
mills from which to receive their cargoes. 

At one time quite a village existed here, rejoicing 
in the name of Alexandria, but the land was owned 
by an Englishman, who refused to sell without 
exacting onerous terms, such as a reservation of all 
ores, minerals, etc., to himself and heirs for all time 
to come, which has kept it comparatively unoccu- 
pied. Once, a good many years ago, men came to 
look at the falls, with intent to build, but, not con- 
sidering the title good, they went to Lowell and 
commenced the erection of these immense factories 
which have made the place what it is ; and thus 
Ticonderoga lost its chance of ranking among 
cities where Lowell does to-day. Within a year 



Alexandria. ii 

or two, however, a company from that city has 
erected a cotton factory at the foot of the falls, 
which will give employment to nearly two hundred 
operatives, which state of affairs causes great joy 
in the breasts of the young men thereabout, and 
Alexandria is looking up once more. 

Toward the north, down where the waters of the 
lake, circling around, are joined by those of Trout 
Brook from the valley on the west, the gallant Lord 
Howe — the life and actual leader of Abercrombie's 
unfortunate expedition of 1758 — was killed. He 
is described as having been the very personification 
of boldness and enterprise ; having but few equals 
physically, and perfectly at home whether in the 
halls of royalty or among the sturdy colonists — 
the life of every movement with which he was con- 
nected — and seeing, not the dress or grade, social 
or military, but the man, whether robed in royal 
purple or clothed in homespun. He had conceived 
a great liking for Rogers, admired him for his 
daring and skill as a woodsman, and often joined 
him on his expeditions to master the mysteries 
of bush fighting, and match himself against the 
wily red men in their native forests. 

A letter written by one who accompanied the 
expedition states that Lord Howe was with Put- 
nam, at the head of the rangers, pressing through 
the thick forests toward Ticonderoga, when they 



12 TiCONDEROGA. 

came suddenly upon a detachment of 300 French, 
who, in attempting to retreat to the fort, had lost 
their way. 

" Keep back, my lord," said Putnam, as they 
advanced tOAvard the enemy ; ''j^ou are the idol 
and soul of the army, while my life is worth but 
little." 

'' Putnam," was Howe's answer, " your life is as 
dear to you as mine is to me. I am determined to go.'' 

At the first fire Lord Howe fell, and the whole 
English army was thrown into confusion, the regu- 
lars pressing back on those behind in a way that, 
for a time, threatened a complete rout. The 
rangers, taking refuge behind trees, fought on 
after the Indian fashion, until the main body ral- 
lied and returned to the charge, this time sweeping 
the French before them with great slaughter, kill- 
ing one-third of their number and taking about 
one hundred and fifty prisoners. 

The death of Howe seemed to paralyze the 
men for a time, who, confused and disheartened by 
their loss, returned to the landing or bivouacked on 
the field until the next day, when they advanced 
upon the French lines. 

Crossing the bridge we proceed on our way, and, 
soon turning again toward the north, commence 
descending the long hill that leads down to the 
village of Ticonderoga. 



TiCONDEROGA ROADS. 1 3 

Many admire the surrounding country, but no 
one goes into ecstacies over the roads. We are 
not, apparently, educated up to it ; but if the 
lamented Captain Jack could come here when the 
clay has hardened into rock, and gaze down into 
the yawning depths of the cavernous ruts, his 
bones would leap for joy, thinking that they were 
once more among the lava beds of the Modoc 
country. Then, when it has been raining, and the 
rock softens, all idols have feet of clay, and it does 
not require such a wonderful stretch of faith to 
believe that you are actually made of the dust of 
the earth, for there is indisputable proof all over 
you. 

Clay to the right of them ; 
Clay to the left of them ; 
Front, back and top of 'em. 
Slippery and squashy. 

Sticky doesn't half express the agony — it meets 
you half way every time ; it works steadily up 
your legs ; it clings to your boots, building out 
at the sides, piling up and roUing over on top, 
in front, behind — every way. Occasionally, when 
you are exerting yourself to lift a foot, it will 
break off in great masses so unexpectedly 
that you nearly go over on the other side ; then 
load up again, and increasing in size and weight 
until in general appearance and style of handling 
(if a person may be properly said to handle his 
2 



14 TiCONDEROGA. 

feet) they resemble those of the agile elephant, and 
you cease to wonder that flies walk fearlessly on 
the ceiling, if the suction on their pedal extremities 
is any thing like that of yours in Ticonderoga clay. 
Great masses revolve ponderously over on the 
wheels; the coaches are painted, striped and var- 
nished with it, the drivers are covered, and the 
horses look like clay models of that noble beast. 

The stages halted in a cluster when part way 
down the hill, and looking around to see the cause 
of the stoppage we beheld a Websterian form 
(some suggested that it was more Clay than Web- 
ster — from the knees down) mounted on a ros- 
tral pile of stones, and thus the orator spake : 

*' Ladies and gentlemen, you will see, if you 
please, on your left, a great natural curiosity — an 
oak and an elm growing from one stump ; you can 
see by the bark and by the leaves that there is no 
mistake about it ; it is truly a g-r-e-a-t n-a-t-u-r-a-I 
c-u-r-i-o-s-i-t-y ; and what God has joined together 
let not man put asunder ; drive on your horses." 

"■ Hold on !" shouted a confident young blood, who 
saw a chance of turning the laugh on the renowned 
joker. 

" Woa ! woa ! what's up ?" 

With a majestic wave of the hand, m imitation 
of the speaker who had preceded him, he said : 

" You will behold, if you please, on the rigJit, 



.A Great Natural Curiosity. 15 

another g-r-e-a-t n-a-t-u-r-a-1 c-u-r-i-o-s-i-t-j ; a 
juvenile specimen of the bovine race — " 

''Young man," said Baldwin, sternly "that's a 
calf. No great curiosity to any one who has seen 
you. Drive on, George." 

This curious tree spoken of has a smooth, round 
body, which, a little above the surface, separates 
into two distinct species, as stated by Mr. Baldw^in, 
who, on being asked how he accounted for the 
phenomenon, allowed that it was " because it grew 
on good union soil." 

" Ruins I ruins ! Let us roam," said a gentleman 
who seemed to be afflicted with a defective vision 
and a poetic temperament. " Fit emblem of the 
poor, weak mortals who here strove for fame, and 
now forgotten lie in unknown graves ; while Time, 
the great leveler, passes, and the mighty walls of 
Ticonderoga crumble away into the dust ; — and, I 
say, driver, can you show us the underground pas- 
sage that we hear so much talk about?" 

'* Yes, sir, when we get there ; I should be very 
happy. This is not the ruins, however, but the 
thriving little village of Ticonderoga. A little 
dirty, I must admit, owing to the conditions of the 
roads, but a pretty little village, indeed, when it 
gets washed up." 

The village has a thrifty look ; contains about 
1,500 inhabitants, three or four churches, schools, 



l6 TiCONDEROGA. 

an academy, woolen factory — noted for producing 
a remarkably good quality of cloth — two hotels, 
several stores, black lead mill, etc. ; soil very pro- 
ductive and roads — characteristic. 

We pass through the village, across the bridge, 
turn toward the right, descend a steep little pitch 
to the flat below, and circling around to the other 
side climb the hill, halting at intervals that the 
panting horses may get breath for a fresh pull at 
the heavy stages. 

Glancing backward we see the lovely little 
village ; its white houses and church spires gleam- 
ing through the dark green foliage of oaks, shut in 
by mountains that come down round about on 
every side ; the divided falls flashing and foaming 
white, with a foreground of waving grasses and 
lily -pads ; while through the reedy flat comes the 
stream, winding gently onward to where it mingles 
with the waters of Champlain, under the gray walls 
of Ticonderoga. 

Arriving at the top of the hill we find a broad 
plateau, along which, in a south-easterly direction, 
we go, and entering a field through a gate, which 
is opened by a muddy little boy, are upon the 
bloody battle ground in front of the old French 
Imes. 




ABERCROMBIE'S DEFEAT. 

LITTLE after noon, on the 8th of 
July, 1758, the order was given to 
advance, and the Enghsh army swept 
forward " into the jaws of death " to 
attack the French, who were securely 
entrenched behind high breastworks ; 
while extending out in front for a hundred yards 
oak trees had been felled, and lay with the branches 
sharpened, and pointing outward. Up to this the 
English marched, and endeavored to force theif 
w^ay, while a steady fire from the enemy cut lanes 
and alleys through their columns, and swept them 
away like leaves before the whirlwind. 

Three times did the Scotch Highlanders cut their 
way to the very summit of the ramparts, and while 
some, toppling over, pierced with many wounds, 
fell fighting to the last, the rest borne back by the 
furious storm of iron which flew from that line 
of fire, retreated sullenly to re-form for another 
advance. 

For four hours, under the hot July sun, this 
unequal contest lasted, the English columns 
advancing like waves of the ocean, to dash in 



l8 TiCONDEROGA. 

impotent fury upon that terrific shore of death, 
and, breaking, recede in rivulets of blood. The 
recall sounded at last, and they retreated in dis- 
order — frightened when no man pursueth — to 
their boats at Lake George, where they re-em- 
barked, and returned to Fort Wilham Henry with- 
out bringing a cannon to bear on the enemy. 

Abercrombie reported 588 killed and missing, 
and 1,356 wounded. Of this number the Forty- 
second Highlanders alone lost, killed and wounded, 
over 600, including all but two of its officers. 
The loss would have been much greater if there 
had been a force of Indians for Montcalm to set 
after the fugitives ; but, luckily, there were but 
sixteen in the fort at the time. The French force 
engaged was 3,458; loss, 271 wounded; 197 killed 
and missing. 

At its close Montcalm, who had stood with his 
coat off throughout the entire engagement, direct- 
ing the movements of his men, made the proud 
boast that, with a half dozen guns and two mortars, 
he could take Carillon without the loss of a man, 
thinking, probably, of Mount Defiance ; but Aber- 
crombie did not seem to think of that, although he 
had that very day sent an engineer to reconnoitre, 
and Gen. Johnson, with 600 Indians, occupied, and 
from its summit were silent spectators of the scene 
below. 



The Muddy Little Boy. 19 

When Abercrombie ordered the advance, he 
took up his position at the saw-mills, a mile in the 
rear (a post of great danger in case the roof should 
happen to fall in), where he valiantly remained 
until a retreat was decided upon, when, with un- 
paralleled bravery, he gallantly lead the advance 
toward home. 

The muddy little boy who opened the gate for 
us was not there at that time. It is to be deeply 
regretted that such was the case ; for, if he had 
been, and firmly refused to allow them to enter 
without a permit from the Pell heirs, thereby com- 
pelling the brilliant General to take some other 
road to reach the battle-ground, we would not now 
be called upon to chronicle the sad event ; but the 
M. L. B. was not there. There were no reliable 
guide-books out at the time, and as Baldwin utterly 
refused to carry the army over for a single cent 
less than the regular fare, they waded ; and the 
result should be a warning to any Avho are base 
enough to insinuate that the hills are not the only 
steep things on the route. 

We cross the ''old French lines," full of angles, 
fronted by a deep ditch, and extending through the 
woods to the water on either side, past two or 
three redouts, and, where the cars shoot through 
the hill beneath us, come in sight of the ruins, a 
quarter of a mile distant. 



20 TiCONDEROGA. 

What memories cluster around the gray old 
promontory? What a history is thine, oh, crumb- 
ling Ticonderoga ? Enough for another chapter ! 
So, let us hasten to the hotel, down among the 
locusts, where a good dinner is awaiting, after 
which w^e can moralize, and paw among the ruins 
to our heart's content ; but, stop ! Behold a tower- 
ing form standing, proudly erect, on that pile of 
stones, and vSnufifing in inspiration by the quart! 
Baldwin is himself once more! and the very 
heavens seem to stoop down to listen, to his fare- 
well flights of fancv. How magnificently he 
spreads his wings, and soars away from the sor- 
rowful past into the glorious future, mounting away 
up, up, among the glittering constellation of stars 
— and stripes, one and inseparable — of America's 
coming greatness — at, including the ride, seventy- 
five cents per head. 

And right here let us pause in our gayety to 
drop a silent tear for one whose life has been 
overshadowed by a great earthly affliction. Many 
anecdotes are told illustrative of his readiness to 
reply. The only instance on record w^here he 
failed was on the occasion of General Sherman's 
passage through the lake in 1871. He had enter- 
tained the company with his usual historical flights 
of fancy along the road, and was introduced to the 
General, by Captain Babbitt as " Captain Baldwin." 



A Great Affliction. 21 

As the boat moved away, he proposed three 
cheers for the " Hero of Atlanta ! " General Sher- 
man, not to be outdone, stepped out from the com- 
pany, and said : 

'' Captain Baldwin ! I promote you to Colonel 
for meritorious conduct on the old battle-ground." 

The great stage man was not prepared for //laf. 
The unexpected honor was too much for him, and, 
for the first time in his life (when talking with a 
man), he failed to get in the last word. The horrid 
conviction of the fact forced itself upon him when 
too late, and he stood, gazing helplessly at the 
departing boat, until his faithful drivers, gathering 
near, asked, in tones of sweet sympathy, whether 
he intended to ride back or wade. Then they 
gently led the stricken man to the waiting stages, 
and bore him back to his home. Tenderly they 
put him in his little bed; lovingly they watched 
over him, while pitying neighbors gathered tear- 
fully around the sufferer, whose spirit, for many, 
many days, seemed just hovering between this 
world and Ticonderoga ; then he was snatched 
away from the fell destroyer, and once more 
appeared in the old, familiar places ; but, alas ! he 
went forth a changed man. He had learned the 
lesson of life ; and since that fearful day has ceased 
to be surprised at any thing. Even when he offered 
President Grant a handful of cio:ars, and he took 



22 TiCONDEROGA. 

but one, the shock was but momentary, and he soon 
recovered from its effects. Alas ! No more shall 
we hear his ringing shout of joy ! but the sad, 
SAveet smile, that illumines his face, grows more 
spirituel as the years drag slowly by. Ah ! 

" Few know how great a thing it is to suffer, and be strong ! " 

Soon, very soon, will he be done with his earthly 
wanderings, and his spirit looks forward with a joy 
that few can know to the happy moment when, 
bidding adieu to the well-remembered scenes of 
his pilgrimage here below, he will brush the clay 
from off his garments, and, with a new song in his 
mouth and a punch in his hand, soar away over 
the Lake George and Ticonderoga Railroad, a 
blissful, free conductor. 




DISCOVERIES. 

A RETROSPECT. 

S the distance to a certain star 
is ascertained by the science of 
triangulation — finding its rela- 
tive position in the heavens as 
viewed from different places in 
the earth's orbit, so must we 
go back a little way and note a 
few important points in history 
to enable us understandingly 
to place in time the history of 

this particular locality. 

In the year one Adam and Eve discovered the 

garden of Eden and began business. 

A few hundred years later Noah built an ark-itec- 

tural craft, and, combining business with pleasure, 

went on a voyage of discovery, being the first man 





of whom we have any record as traveling with a 
menagerie. He was not very well patronized, 
however, on account of the Black Crook, which 



24 TiCONDEROGA. 

was having an unprecedented run at that time ; 
and although he advertised it extensively for a hun- 
dred and twenty years, he only got together an 
audience of seven beside himself, and all dead- 
heads at that. So one time, when he accidentally 
got aground, he was discouraged (Barnum wouldn't 
have been, but he was), gave up the show business, 
settled on Mount Ararat, and went into the liquor 
trade. 

.^--^Sr'-^^ The next discovery (let us say 

_ it reverently, for the bright an- 
.fc gels assisted, and beside it all 
:g others are as naught) was made 
by the wise men of the east, who 
found in a manger a little baby 
form, within which trembled 
the sweet spirit of the Savior of mankind. 

Then a thousand years went by, and, tradition 
says, the northmen came to the shores of the west- 
ern continent, and sailing as far south as Rhode 
Island attempted to settle there ; then they drifted 
back again, and the country was as though it had 
never been seen. 

In 1492 America was discovered some more by 
C. Columbus, who attained to considerable local 
notoriety thereby. All young men should copy 
after this great and good man — now, alas, deceased 
— and discover new countries. 




Columbus. 25 

It is true, all do not possess the advantages which 
he did, and cannot expect to do as well ; but all 
can try. It is a subject to which the author has 
given considerable, deep, exhaustive study, and, 
while he venerates the old chap hugely for what he 
did, justice to another compels him to say that 
Chris, has been greatly over-honored, and that the 
actual discoverer of America w^as his mother-in- 
law. Not that she really saw it ivitJi her ozvn eyeSy 




but histor}^ positively states that she ^'gave him the 
privilege of examining the charts and journals of 
her deceased husband," which led to the glorious 
results above mentioned, and for which she should 
have the credit. This point seems to have escaped 
the notice of all other historians. To a reflecting 
mind it affords food for serious contemplation, con- 
veying, as it does, a great, double-barreled lesson ; 
for, while it should induce all young ladies to aim 
at the honorable distinction of becoming what she 
Avas — viewing from a distance, which always 
lends enchantment to the view (of mothers-in-law) 
— it should teach us the lesson ot greater toleration 
toward that interesting class. 
3 



26 TiCONDEROGA. 

In 1497 John Cabot saw Labrador or the island 
of '' New-found-land." 

In 1524 Verrazani explored the Atlantic coast 
from Delaw^are to New Foundland, and gave it the 
name of "New" France." 

In 1534 James Cartier entered the mouth of the 
St. Lawrence, and the following year sailed up the 
river to a larsre Indian settlement, called " Hoche- 
laga;" but the hotel accommodations being no 
better, if as good as at present, he returned to 
France, naming the place Mount Royal — now 
Montreal. 

In 1607 the first permanent English settlement 
on the new continent was commenced, the 
original and only true John Smith assisting, and it 
was called Jamestown. Smith, who seems to have 
been quite a tourist in his day, and given to 
wandering about making discoveries, had, on one 
of his excursions, a little misunderstanding with a 
wealthy native land-owner, named Powhattan. Mr. 
P., being endowed with a large heart and very 
liberal ideas, and thinking to settle the difficulty in 
the easiest manner possible, at the same time dis- 
seminating knowledge by scattering said Smith's 
well-stored brains, had him placed in the position 
best adapted to the satisfactory accomplishment of 
the same. At this very interesting juncture, his 
daughter, the youthful Pocahontas, cast an implor- 



The Pocahontas-Smith Affair. 27 

ing look on her father and her protecting form on 
Smith. The old gentleman was touched, and con- 




sented to forego his little joke to please the fair 
girl, who had but just made her debut. Smith re- 
turned to his home, since which time every body 
has been naming their children after him as a pro- 
tection against Indians. Pocahontas ought to have 
married him to make the romance complete, but 
she did not. She became the wife of an English 
gentleman, and, under that severe affliction, joined 
the church, taking the name of Rebecca. Her 
descendants are now found among the F. F, V.'s. 

December 21, 1620, the pilgrims were discovered 
sitting on Plymouth Rock, apparently lost. Winter, 
which, in that favored locality, commences on the 
first of August and continues until the latter part 
of July, had fairly set in, and the rock was very 
cold ; so they got down and skirmished around for 
something to eat. Luckily they found a quantity 
of corn, which Providence, assisted by some of the 



28 TiCONDEROGA. 

natives, had concealed in the sand near by, and 
which enabled them to worr}/ through (As a 




proof of Darwinianism, it may be well to state 
here that they came from the Mdiyflozver, which is 
going further back than the monkey even, and out- 
Darwins Darwin himself) They were so exces- 
sively liberal-minded as to insist on every body else 
being liberal, also, which occasioned a misunder- 
standing with one Roger Williams, who promul- 
gated the pernicious doctrine that the '' civil power 
had no right to control the religious opinions of 
men." This was too much bigotry for them to 
swallow, and they very properly invited him to go. 
He accepted the invitation, and fenced in a little 
farm further south, which (Rodge was a plain man, 
and easily satisfied) has since been known as Rhode 
Island. 

Eleven years before the pilgrims landed, Henry 
Hudson, an English captain of a Dutch junk 
called the " Scmi-luna," discovered and ascended 



Champlain's Battle, 1609. 29 

the river that now bears his name ; whereupon 
En,2^1and laid claim to the country because of his 
being an Englishman, and the Dutch on the 
strength of the ship in which he sailed. Between 
the two it grew to be an English colony, with 
Dutch inhabitants, who gave its largest tow^i the 
name of Neiv Avistcrdani ; afterward changed to 
New York. It still stands. 

The same year a representative of the French 
nation, Champlain, accompanying a war party of 
Hurons and Algonquins against the Iroquois, 
sailed south on the lake which he named after 
himself, then called by a jaw-breaking Indian title, 
which, interpreted, means '' the lake that is the 
gate of the country." We copy his graphic 
account of the first battle that occurred near this 
place in which Europeans took a hand : 

" I left the rapids of the river of the Iroquois on 
the 2d of July, 1609. "^ - ^ On coming within 
two or three days' journey of the enemy's quar- 
ters, we traveled only by night and rested by 
day. ^ * * 

''At nightfall we embarked in our canoes to con- 
tinue our journey, and, as we advanced very softly 
and noiselesslv, we encountered a war party of 
Iroquois on the 29th of the month, about ten o'clock 
at night, at the point of a cape which puts into the 
lake on the west side. They and we began to shout, 



30. TiCONDEROGA. 

each seizing his arms. We withdrew toward the 
water, and the Iroquois repaired on shore and 
arranged all their canoes, the one beside the other, 
and began to hew down trees, with villainous axes, 
which they sometimes got in war, and others of 
stone, and fortified themselves very securely. 

" Our party, likewise, kept their canoes arranged 
the one alongside the other, tied to poles so as not 
to run adrift, in order to fight all together, should 
need be. We were on the water, about an arrow- 
shot from their barricades. When they were armed 
and in order, they sent two canoes from the fleet to 
know if their enemies wished to fight ; who 
answered that they ' desired nothing else,' but that 
just then there was not much light, and we must 
wait for day to distinguish each other, and that they 
would give us battle at sunrise. This was agreed 
to by our party. Meanwhile the whole night was 
spent in dancing and singing, as well on one side as 
on the other, mingled with an infinitude of insults 
and other taunts, such as the little courage they 
had, how powerless their resistance against their 
arms, and that when day would break, they should 
experience this to their ruin. Ours, likewise, did 
not fail in repartee ; telling them they should wit- 
ness the effects of arms they had never seen before, 
and a multitude of other speeches as is usual at a 
siege of a town. After the one and the other had 



Champlain's Battle, 1609. 31 

sung, danced and parliamented enough, day broke. 
My companions and I Avere always concealed, for 
fear the enemy should see us, preparing our arms the 
best we could, being, however, separated, each in 
one of the canoes. After being equipped with light 
armor, we took each an arquebus and went ashore. 
I saw the enemies leave their barricade ; they were 
about 200 men, of strong and robust appearance, 
who were coming slowly toward us, with a gravity 
and assurance which greatly pleased me, led on by 
three chiefs. Ours were marching in similar order, 
and told me that those who bore three lofty plumes 
were the chiefs, and that there were but these three, 
and they were to be recognized by those plumes 
which were considerably larger than those of their 
companions and that I must do all I could to kill 
them. I promised to do what I could, and that I 
was very sorry they could not clearly understand 
me, so as to give them the order and plan of attack- 
ing their enemies, as we should indubitably defeat 
them all; but there was no help for that; that I 
was very glad to encourage them, and to manifest 
to them my good will when we should be engaged. 
'' The moment we landed they began to run 
about two hundred paces toward their enemies, 
who stood firm, and had not yet perceived my 
companions, who went into the bush with some 
savages. Ours commenced calling me in a loud 



32 TiCONDEROGA. 

voice, and making way for me, opened in two, and 
placed me at their head, marching about twenty 
paces in advance until I was within thirty paces 
of the enemy. 

'* The moment they saw me they halted, gazing 
at me and I at them. When I saw them preparing 
to shoot at us I raised my arquebus, and aiming 
directly at one of the three chiefs, two of them 
fell to the ground by this shot, and one of their 
companions received a wound, of which he died 
afterward. I had put four balls in my arquebus. 
Ours, in witnessing a shot so favorable to them, set 
up such tremendous shouts that thunder could not 
have been heard ; and yet there was no lack of 
arrows on one side and the other. The Iroquois 
were greatly astonished, seeing two men killed so 
instantaneously, notwithstanding they were pro- 
vided Avith arrow-proof armor w^oven of cotton 
thread and wood. This frightened them very 
much. Whilst I was reloading, one of m}^ com- 
panions in the bush fired a shot which so aston- 
ished them anew, seeing their chiefs slain, that 
they lost courage, took to flight and abandoned 
the field and their fort, hiding themselves in the 
depths of the forest, whither pursuing them I 
killed some others. Our savages also killed sev- 
eral of them, and took ten or twelve prisoners. 
The rest carried off the wounded. Fifteen or six- 



Champlain's Battle, 1609. 33 

teen of ours were wounded by arrows ; they were 
promptly cured. 

"After having gained the victory they amused 
themselves plundering Indian corn and meal from 
the enemy ; also their arms, which they had thrown 
down in order to run the better. And having 
feasted, sung and danced, we returned, three hours 
after, with the prisoners. 

" The place where the battle was fought is 43 
degrees some minutes latitude, and I named it 
Lake Champlain." 

It is probable that " the point of a cape which 
puts into the lake on the west side," was Ticonder- 
oga, and the place where the battle occurred the 
flat just north of the old promontory, which is 
situated about 43 degrees, 35 minutes, N. latitude. 





CARILLON. 

lESKAU moved from Fort St. Fred- 
erick in the summer of 1755 to fortify 
Ticonderoga, as a protection against 
Johnson's force, then marching toward 
Crown Point ; but, hearing that he was 
then at the head of Lake George with 
the greater part of his force, leaving Fort Lyman 
(Edward) in a defenseless condition, the brave old 
baron, whose motto was '^ valor wins," decided to 
advance upon it at once. The result of the move- 
ment is detailed in the account of the battle of 
Lake George. At that time he commenced a forti- 
fication, which was completed the ensuing year, 
and called " Carillon," meaning music, racket, 
a chime of bells, perhaps suggested b}" the per- 
petual chiming of the '' sounding waters" near by. 
The Indian name of Ticonderoga has been vari- 
ously spelled, owing, probably, to the known diffi- 
culty of finding just the right letter to express a 
certain sound in a different tongue from our own. 
The word seems to mean the meeting of waters, 
rather than the explanation usually given of '' sound- 
ing waters," which may have been the name of the 
falls above, but not of the old promontory, for the 



Fort Ticonderoga. 35 

[ndians always gave names that meant something, 
and had some peculiar fitness to the thing named. 
Tio-gen meant " the junction of two waters ;" Deca- 
riade7'oga "the junction of lakes of two different 
qualities." In Pownell's map, published in London 
in 1774, it is marked Chconderoga^ and the explana- 
tion given is "three rivers." Colden, writing in 
1765, says: " These names, though supposed to be 
proper names of places, are, really, common names 
in the Indian language, signifying a river or hill, 
or fall of water. Thus Tienderoga, though to us 
the proper name of the fort between Lake George 
and Lake Champlain, signifies the place zvhcre tzvo 
rivers meet, and many places are called by that name 
in the Indian language." 

In 1757 Montcalm went out from the stronghold 
to the attack of Fort WiUiam, and returned victo- 
rious, but the leaves in his crown of laurel dripped 
with the blood of helpless women and children. 

In 1758 General Abercrombie made his unsuc- 
cessful attack, and the following year Amherst 
entrenched before the old French Hues, and pre- 
pared to lay seige to the fort. The French, finding 
that they could not hope to successfully resist, 
abandoned the works on the night of the twenty- 
sixth of July, setting fire to them as they went. 
The flames soon communicated with the shells and 
loaded guns, which kept up a continuous discharge 



36 



TiCONDEROGA. 



for some time ; then the English advanced and took 
possession, finding- no enemy to resist, save the fire, 
which was soon extinguished. The French re- 
treated down the lake, leaving Fort St. Frederick 
also in possession of the English, who enlarged 
and strengthened them on a scale of great magnifi- 
cence, but never a shot or shell sped from the 
costly embrasures against an advancing enemy ; 
while time passed, and, touching the massive walls, 
they, piece by piece, fell away, and for want of an 
object were never repaired, so that, when the 
cloud which had so long threatened, burst, and the 
colonies were at war with the mother country, they 
scarcely afforded protection for the company of lazy 
red coats composing the garison at the time. 





ETHAN ALLEN. 

HE question as to who originated the 
idea of capturing Ticonderoga has 
provoked much discussion, and it is 
not to be wondered at, if the same 
thought was suggested to the minds 
of several at the same time ; but John 
Brown seems to have been the first to make a 
movement in that direction. He had passed 
through the New Hampshire settlements about 
the beginning of March, 1775, and wrote to 
Samuel Adams and Joseph Warren at Boston: 
" One thing I must mention, to be kept as a pro- 
found secret: The fort at Ticonderoga must be 
seized as soon as possible, should hostilities be 
committed by the king's troops ; the people of the 
New Hampshire grants have engaged to do the 
business, and in my opinion they are the proper 
persons for the job." 

The " Green Mountain Boys " were, without 
doubt, '' the proper persons for the job." Ethan 
Allen's was the voice that called them together, 
and to him is due the credit of carrying the design 
to a successful termination, notwithstanding the 
views of quite a noted writer on the subject, who 
divides the honor between him and Benedict 
4 



38 TiCONDEROGA. 

Arnold, generously giving the latter the lion's 
share, as being the ''duly commissioned" officer 
of the expedition. Arnold luas duly commissioned 
by the Massachusetts committee of safety to raise 
men and proceed to take the fort in question, and 
he conceived the briUiant idea of raising a lot that 
were gathering around Ethan Allen at Castleton. 
So, hastening forward alone, he arrived as they 
were preparing to march, and applied for the 
command by virtue of his commission, which 
modest request was not granted. Even after this 
unjust treatment, with a generosity truly commend- 
able, he was willing to allow Allen to accompany 
him as an equal, in consideration of the compara- 
tively unimportant fact that the men would not go 
under any other commander. '' By the judicious 
course of Arnold harmony was restored," and they 
proceeded on their way, having entered into an 
arrangement whereby they Avere to hold joint com- 
mand — a sort of double-headed military monstros- 
ity — one armed with aiitJwrity^ the other power. 
To an American, Ethan Allen and Ticonderoga 
seem as one, and the history of the fort would be 
incomiplete without that of the Green Mountain 
leader. He was born in 1738 in Connecticut, re- 
moving thence at an early age, and settling on the 
New Hampshire grants. A man of strong, natural 
endowments, energy and decision of character ; an 



Ethan Allen. 39 

unyielding advocate of what he considered right. 
Beloved by friends and feared by foes he naturally 
became the leader of the settlers on the western 
slope, and took a prominent part in resisting the 
demands of New York, which State, claiming juris- 
diction to the summit of the Green mountains, 
ejected settlers who did not receive a title from 
them, punished those who resisted, and declared 
Allen an outlaw, with a price set upon his head. 
At the breaking out of the rebellion he raised a 
company of men and started to attack the fort, 
accompanied by Arnold, who was probably endured 
because of the commission which he held, while his 
presence made no difference in the movement of the 
men. From Allen's "Narrative," written in 1779, 
the following account of the capture is taken : 

" Ever since I arrived at the state of manhood, 
and acquainted myself w^ith the general history of 
mankind, I have felt a sincere passion for liberty. 
The history of nations, doomed to perpetual slavery, 
in consequence of yielding up to tyrants their natu- 
ral-born liberties, I read with a sort of philosophical 
horror; so that the first systematical and bloody 
attempt at Lexington, to enslave America, thor- 
oughly electrified my mind, and fully determined 
me to take part with my country. And, while I 
was wishing for an opportunity to signalize myself 
in its behalf, directions were privately sent to me 



40 TiCONDEROGA. 

from the then colony (now State) of Connecticut, to 
raise the Green Mountain Boys, and, if possible, to 
surprise and take the fortress of Ticonderoga. This 
enterprise I cheerfully undertook ; and, after first 
guarding all the several passes that led thither, to 
cut off all intelligence between the garrison and the 
country, made a forced march from Bennington, 
and arrived at the lake opposite to Ticonderoga 
on the evening of the ninth day of May, 1775, with 
two hundred and thirty valiant Green Mountain 
Boys ; and it was with the utmost difficulty that I 
procured boats to cross the lake. However, 1 
landed eighty-three men near the garrison, and sent 
the boats back for the rear guard, commanded by 
Col. Seth Warner ; but the day began to dawn, and 
I found myself under a necessity to attack the fort, 
before the rear could cross the lake ; and, as it was 
viewed hazardous, I harangued the officers and 
soldiers in the manner following : 

" ' Friends and fellow soldiers, you have, for a 
number of years past been a scourge and terror 
to arbitrary power. Your valor has been famed 
abroad, and acknowledged, as appears by the ad- 
vice and orders to me from the General Assembly 
of Connecticut, to surprise and take the garrison 
now before us. T now propose to advance before 
you, and in person conduct you through the wicket- 
gate; for we must this morning either quit our 



Ethan Allen. 41 

pretensions to valor, or possess ourselves of this 
fortress in a few minutes ; and, inasmuch as it is a 
desperate attempt, which none but the bravest of 
men dare undertake, I do not urge it on any con- 
trary to his will. You that will undertake volun- 
tarily, poise your firelocks.' 

" The men being, at this time, drawn up in three 
ranks, each poised his firelock. I ordered them to 
face to the right, and at the head of the center file, 
marched them immediately to the wicket-gate 
aforesaid, where I found a sentry posted, who 
instantly snapped his fusee at me ; I ran immedi- 
ately toward him, and he retreated through the 
covered way into the parade within the garrison, 
gave a halloo, and run under a bomb-proof. My 
party, who followed me into the fort, I formed on 
the parade in such a manner as to face the two bar- 
racks which faced each other. 

'' The garrison being asleep, except the sentries, 
we gave three huzzas, which greatly surprised 
them. One of the sentries made a pass at one of 
my officers with a charged bayonet, and slightly 
wounded him. My first thought was to kill him 
wdth my sword ; but in an instant I altered the 
design and fury of the blow to a slight cut on the 
side of the head ; upon which he dropped his gun, 
and asked quarter, which 1 readily granted him, 
and demanded of him the place where the com- 



42 TiCONDEROGA. 

manding officer kept ; he shewed me a pair of stairs 
in the front of a barrack, on the west part of the 
garrison, which led up a second story in said bar- 
rack, to which I immediately repaired, and ordered 
the commander, Capt. De La Place, to come forth 
instantly, or I would sacrifice the whole garrison ; 
at which the captain came immediately to the door 
with his breeches in his hand ; when I ordered him 
to deliver me the fort instantly; he asked me by 
what authority 1 demanded it ; I answered him, 
^ In the name of the Great Jehovah, and the Conti- 
nental Congress.'' The authority of the Congress 
being very little known at that time, he began to 
speak again ; but I interrupted him, and with my 
drawn sword over his head, again demanded an 
immediate surrender of the garrison ; with \vhich 
he then complied, and ordered his men to be forth- 
with paraded w^ithout arms, as he had given up 
the garrison. In the mean time some of my officers 
had given orders, and in consequence thereof, sun- 
dry of the barrack doors were beat down, and 
about one- third of the garrison imprisoned, which 
consisted of the said commander, a Lieut. Feltham, 
a conductor of artillery, a gunner, two sergeants, 
and forty-four rank and file ; about one hundred 
pieces of cannon, one thirteen inch mortar, and a 
number of swivels. This surprise was carried into 
execution in the grey of the morning of the tenth 



Ethan Allen. 43 

of May, 1775. The sun seemed to rise that morn- 
ing with a superior lustre ; and Ticonderoga and 
its dependencies smiled on its conquerors, who 
tossed about the flowing bowl, and wished success 
to Congress, and the liberty and freedom of Amer- 
ica. Happy it was for me, at that time, that the 
then future pages of the book of fate, which after- 
ward unfolded a miserable scene of two years and 
eight months imprisonment, were hid from my view. 
"But to return to my narration: Col. Warner, 
with the rear guard, crossed the lake, and joined 
me early in the morning, whom I sent off, without 
loss of time, Vvdth about one hundred men, to take 
possession of Crown Point, which was garrisoned 
with a sergeant and twelve men, which he took 
possession of the same day, as also upwards of one 
hundred pieces of cannon." 

In September of the same year Allen joined Maj. 
John Brown in an expedition against Montreal, 
was captured and sent to England, where the 
populace looked upon the tall American as a great 
curiosity ; but the government found that they had 
drawn an elephant, and did not know how to get 
rid of him. He clearly deserved hanging, but, 
unfortunately, the Yankees held too many loyal 
Englishmen to make it safe to inaugurate such a 
course of proceedings. 



44 TiCONDEROGA. 

He was carried about to various places until 
January, 1777, when he was put aboard an English 
vessel, and spent most of the time until November 
sailing up and down the American seaboard, then 
allowed to go ashore on his parol. While await- 
ing in New York to be exchanged he was offered a 
colonel's commission and a large tract of land in 
either the New Hampshire grants or Connecticut 
if he would espouse the royal cause and help to 
subdue the rebels. His characteristic reply was : 

" That, if by faithfulness I had recommended 
mvself to Gen. Howe, I should be loth, by unfaith- 
fulness, to lose the General's good opinion ; besides, 
that I viewed the offer of land to be similar to that 
which the devil offered Jesus Christ, ' To give him 
all the kingdoms of the world, if he would fall 
down and worship him ;' when, at the same time, 
the damned soul had not one foot of land upon 
earth." 

In May, 1778, he was exchanged. He visited 
Washington at Valley Forge ; was received by him 
with marks of approbation and esteem, and, after 
offering his further services in behalf of his countr}^ 
returned to Bennington, where he arrived on the 
last day of May, with health much impaired by the 
trials he had undergone, and which, probably, 
hastened his death, which occurred February 13, 
1789. 



Burgoyne's Expedition. 45 

It is claimed by some that he was engaged in a 
treasonable movement, the object of which was to 
attach Vermont to Canada. It is not reasonable to 
suppose that this man, who, in the darkest days of 
the rebellion, sick and in prison, refused wealth and 
a title, would have plotted treason to his country 
at a time when light was breaking, and the recol- 
lection of Bennington and Saratoga still fresh in 
the hearts of the people. Rather let us consider it, 
what the result seemed to prove, a master stroke 
of diplomacy, which effectually stopped all military 
operations of the army under Haldiman, then at 
Ticonderoga, and for a long time protected the 
northern frontier from the depredations of the 
enemy. Then came peace and rest to the soldier, 
who, had he been less a partizan, might have made 
fewer enemies, but not what he was, ^^ Ethan Allen, 
the hero of Ticonderoga, the idol of the Green 
Mountain men." 

1776 passed quietly at Ticonderoga, with the 
exception of an alarm caused by the approach of 
Sir Guy Carleton, who came as far south as Crown 
Point, and then withdrew into Canada again ; but, 
with the summer of 1777, came, sweeping from the 
north, the brave, the accomplished, the conceited 
Burgoyne, bringing, in his train, 7,500 men, who 
prepared to attack Ticonderoga. St. Clair, then in 
command, had barely sufficient troops to man the 



46 



TiCONDEROGA. 



principal works, let alone the outposts. So, on the 
approach of the Enghsh, he abandoned his position 
outside, and retired within the old French lines. 
Burgoyne advanced and took possession; erected 




MOUNT DEFIANCE 



a battery on the rocky bluff, just north of where 
the village of Ticonderoga now stands, thereby 
cutting off all communication with Lake George, 
and, elated by the advantage gained, called it 
*' Mount Hope." From this point a brisk cannon- 
ading was commenced, under cover of which a 
road was cut to the summit of Sugar Hill, and on 
the night of the 4th of July several cannon were 
conveyed to its summit, which they then named 
" Mount Defiance." When the morning of the 5th 



Burgoyne's Expedition. 47 

broke, the garrison of St. Clair beheld, with aston- 
ishment and dismay, the guns of the English on 
the top of the mountain, across the valley, scarcely 
two miles distant, from which they could easily 
throw shot and shell right down into the midst of 
the fortification. A council of war was called, and 
an evacuation decided upon ; but, as every move- 
ment w^ithin the fort could be distinctly seen from 
Mount Defiance, the men were not told of the 
decision of the commandant until after dark. 
" Then there was hurrying to and fro ;" all that 
could be removed was taken. Guns that could not 
be taken were spiked ; and shortly after midnight 
the stars looked down on a throng moving silently 
away across the chain-bridge. Then, once more, 
the grim old fortress was left silent and alone. 

Contrary to express orders, one of the soldiers, 
on abandoning Mount Independence, set fire to a 
house, and the light streaming far out, across the 
water, revealed the retreating Americans to the 
watchful foe. They hastened their flight, and the 
greater part, taking the road toward Castleton, 
were followed and engaged by the English, who 
complained that " the Green Mountain Boys took 
nghtr The result was a victory for the English, 
with a loss of nearly ten to one of the Yankees. 
■ The others, retreating up Wood creek to Skeens- 
boro', were pursued by Burgoyne, who broke 



48 TiCONDEROGA. 

through the chain bridge and reached the landing 
nearly as soon as they, capturing most of the 
stores and ammunition, the men escaping to Fort 
Ann. 

St. Clair was removed from his command, but 
at an after-investigation justified and honored for 
the moral bravery displayed in choosing to sacri- 
fice his own reputation rather than the lives of his 
soldiers. Then came the story of 

" The Green Mountaineer — the Stark of Bennington. 

When on that field his band the Hessians fought, 
Briefly he spokg before the fight began : 

' Soldiers ! those German gentlemen are bought 
For four pounds eight and seven pence per man, 

By England's king ; a bargain as is thought. 
Are we worth more ? Let's prove it now we can ; 

For we must beat them, boys, ere set of sun, 
Or Mollie Stark's a widow.' It was done.^^ 

Then '' Saratoga," bringing humiliation to the 
English and joy to the struggling patriots, and the 
garrison at Ticonderoga dismantling the old fort, 
retired into Canada. 

It was occupied again in 1780 by the forces 
under General Haldiman, and was the scene of 
those bloodless battles of diplomacy where Allen 
plotted treason with such consummate sagacity 
that his bitterest enemy could find nothing to jus- 
tify their suspicions of wrong ; all of which goes 
to prove him a very subtle villain indeed. Mean- 
while the enemy of his country rested on their 



Peace. 



49 



arms along the northern frontier, " and peace 
reigned throughout her borders." 

Then once again an enemy attacked the old fort. 
Coming not with the sound of martial music and 
the gay trappings of the soldiery, but with ban- 
ners of trailing cloud and drifting mist, with music 
of wind and rain and echoing thunder, while 
frosts rack and tempests beat upon the frowning 
walls, which crumble and fall away, and nature, 
reclaiming her own, tenderly covers it over with 
springing grass and creeping vines, hastening the 
time when nothing shall remain to tell the story of 
the past but the sounding name that the Red ^len 
gave it long ago. 




50 



TiCONDEROGA. 




cHT^^J^ HE Fort Ticonderoga Hotel was built 
in 1826 by William F. Pell for a sum- 
mer residence, and first occupied as 
a hotel in 1840, when the grounds 
were thrown open to the public. 

The central portion is two stories 
high ; the front sustained by massive 
columns, around which vines cling 
and climb to the very top. On each 
side extends long, low wings, with suits of rooms 
at the extreme ends, which can be entered from the 
outside or through the glass-enclosed verandah 
from the main building. The hotel faces the east, 
is fronted by a tree-covered lawn, through which 
a plank walk leads down to the steamboat dock, 
and a road runs through the fields to the depot 
a little to the north, over which a free carriage 
conveys guests to and from all trains. The house 
is open day and night ; the principal business is 
the dinners, which are first-class, and partaken of by 
hungry travelers while waiting for the boats ; and, 
altogether, it is a very enjoyable place, unless it 
rains, in which case (to use a strong word, and one 
with a smack of profanity about it, perfectly 
plain to those who have been thereabouts at such 
times) it is simply " Ticonderoga." 



52 



TiCONDEROGA. 




THE liAKKA 



PRESENT STATE OF THE RUINS. 




'ROM the south end of the hotel a path 
leads across the field, where, at its out- 
skirts, we climb over the stone wall, 
and, following along- under the locusts, a 
little way to the south come to the " old 
fort well," a never failing spring, the 
green, slimy home of the frog and the lizard, nearl}" 
filled with stones and clinging alders. Crossing 
the road we follow along up the stone fence over 
the very road pursued by Allen on that May morn- 
ing nearly a century ago. There is little doubt 
about it. 

Allen's narrative, the various traditions, and the 
testimony of Isaac Rice, whose brother was with 
Allen at the time, establish this fact, as well as that 
of the place where the commandant slept, and 
where he stood when the tall Vermonter demanded 
the surrender. The old soldier, who, himself, per- 



The Underground Passsage. 53 

formed garrison duty, under St. Clair, for many 
years acted as a guide at the ruins, and was buried, 
at his own request, within the fortress,"^ there to 
sleep until the great reveille shall sound, and he 
rises to answer at roll-call, in a world that has no 
ruins. 

A great pile of stones mark the spot where once 
existed the entrance to the covered way {protected 
way would be better understood among unmilitary 
people, as it protected a person within it from an 
enemy at the sides only, being open at the top), 
where the sentry snapped his fusee at Allen. The 
walls are thirty-three inches apart, and can be 
easily traced to where they seem to enter the fort 
at the south-east corner of the parade-ground. The 
walls of the barrack, on the west, where the com- 
mandant slept, are still standing ; those on the 
south are nearly gone, while the cellar only shows 
where the east line stood. Along the north side is 
what was probably the bomb-proof, under which 
the soldier ran when pursued by Allen. The 
foundation can be traced along the front and across 
the ends. On the side toward the parade are the 
remains of four heavy piers or columns of mason 
work, which supported the roof. Under this men 
could retire, and, through the embrasures that 

*Cook. 



54 TiCONDEROGA. 

looked out toward the north, bring guns to bear on 
an enemy approaching from that direction. 

I am aware that this statement is not in accord- 
ance with any other given ; but I consider the 
proof sufficient to carry me out in the assertion. 
The outHne of all the walls are perfectly plain. 
The foundation of this one is well preserved ; the 
corners sharp, and unmistakably made so, as w^ell as 
the piers built on the inside for the (probable) sup- 
port of the roof. If this ever had a fourth wall, 
why should all trace of it be wanting at the present 
day, when others are so plainly defined ? The fact 
that the retreating soldier ran into the parade first 
is presumptive evidence that he had to do so to 
reach the bomb-proof. Allen says : " My party, 
who followed me into the fort, I formed, on the 
parade, in such a manner as to face the two bar- 
racks, whicJi face each other'' It is evident that 
Allen meant, by that sentence, to describe the 
position that his men occupied ; but if the barracks 
faced each other on the north and south, as well as 
on the east and Avest, the sentence would be mere 
foolishness, and express nothing. The idea that 
there w^ere barracks on the four sides, probably, 
grew out of the fact that there were four buildings, 
but two of the four were on the south side, and 
between them the main entrance to the parade. 



The Grenadier Battery. 55 

Let us go to the place where Allen entered, at 
the south end of the east line of barracks, which is 
here cut off on a line Avith the parade by a descend- 
ing alley, looking out toward the old well, and con- 
tinued in the trench and double line of walls Avhich 
was the covered way. We wonder at the peculiar 
shape of the foundation on the extreme point of 
this corner, like in shape to the head of an Indian 
arrow, the point extending outward. Half way 
down to the point of the promontory a rocky ledge 
crops out. Extending beyond is the remains of an 
old battery or covered Avay. On the brow of the 
promontory, commanding the lake for quite a dis- 
tance, as it circles around, is the grenadier battery, 
a substantial looking, stone and earth fort, designed 
for heavy guns, having seven angles, the side front- 
ing the water curved inward. It is said to have 
been the one commenced by Baron Dieskau in 
1755. The chain or floating bridge extended from 
near the steamboat landing to the point on the 
opposite shore where you will find, near the foot 
of the hill, the Avater battery, and, higher up, lines 
of breastAvorks ; Avhileon the summit is the ruins of 
Avhat, in '']6, Avas a picket fort, surrounding a square 
of barracks. Here are the graves of many soldiers, 
their last resting place marked by little, rough 
headstones — "nameless, all but one, and that a 
name unknoAvn." 



56 



TiCONDEROGA. 



Returning to the old fort, we find at tlie south- 
west corner, just outside of the barracks, the sur- 
face broken and thrown up into grassy mounds, 

marking the position 
of one of the three 
underground rooms 
which existed at the 
time Amherst took 
possession of the 
fort; the second is 
found in a similar 
condition to the first, 
a t the north-west 
corner ; the door and 
entrance from the 
cellar of the officers' 
([uarters being quite 
\vell preserved now. 
Following along the 
hollow that seems to 
mark the course of 
an underground passage to the north-east corner, 
you stand over the third, which is one of the best 
preserved portions of the ruins. To enter you 
climb down into the cellar, now nearh^ filled with 
broken stones and overrun with vines, and, stoop- 
ing low, make your way through the opening 
before you. 




THE BARRACK WINDOW. 



The Magazine. 



57 




THE MAGAZINE. 



At one time a man could enter erect, but now 
stones stop the way, and earth and stones half fill 
the room beneath. You find it is bomb-proof, 
about twelve feet wide by thirty long, with arched 
roof; the entrance at the south-west corner; at 
the south is a large sky-light; at the east end a 
small, chimney-like aperture ; at each corner of 
this end are small circular rooms, with arched 
roof, one about seven, the other ten, feet in diam- 
eter. At the Avest end the side wall has fallen in, 
where, apparently, an underground passage led off 
toward the room at the west barrack, the indica- 
tion of which can be traced along the surface. 
What this was for is a matter of supposition. Some 
say that this was the bakery, and it is generally 



58 TiCONDEROGA. 

spoken of as such. But was it necessary to have 
the bakery so well protected ? Military men gen- 
erally say that it was the magazine. " You pays 
3-our money and you takes your choice." 

Come out and stand once more on the rounded 
top. At our feet is a deep ditch ; in the center, on 
the north and west, are two high bastions com- 
manding the approach from these directions ; 
around them also flows the trench in which troops 
could be marched and massed at any desired point 
within the circuit. Outside of the ditch, following 
its various angles, is the outer wall, once breast 
high, but now almost level with the plain, and the 
glacis slopes off toward Champlain on the north, 
and upward toward the old French lines at the 
north-west. 

Turning toward the sunrise we look down over 
the old camp well, the waving locusts and grove, 
where stands the hotel with its double guard of 
spectral looking poplars, and the field to the north, 
which is probably the scene of Champlain 's battle 
with the Iroquois over two hundred 3'ears ago. 

A long bridge stretches away across the lake, 
and a huge, Avhite, floating draw swings open and 
shut as the steamers come and go. Just a little 
north, on the further shore, is the place where, on 
the evening of the 9th of May, 1775, the Green 
Mountain Boys gathered, with eyes set toward the 



Ethan Allen. 59 

old fort ; while away beyond, where the mountains 
slope toward the west, from their blue summit to 
the water's edge, lies the disputed territory — the 
New Hampshire grants. 

Turn back a hundred pages in the book of time. 
It is night — one of those bright, dewy ones that 
heralds the approach of a day of uncommon love- 
liness. Knowing all things, we understand the 
thoughts of those who gather on that further shore, 
and as the stars, slowly rising above the eastern 
mountains, proclaim the coming morn, we see the 
dusky throng come up out of the water, and stand 
silently on this side. Now a tall form steps out 
from among the little band; we hear the brief 
harangue, and see every gun poised in token of 
their w^illingness to follow where Ethan Allen 
leads. We follow their stealthy march across the 
lowland, past the old fort well, and up the path to 
the wicket-gate. The startled sentry raises his 
gun at the leader, but no sound follows the motion. 
Perhaps it was not loaded ; the lazy red coats were 
not expecting an enemy so soon. Now the attack- 
ing party follow the retreating soldier through the 
covered way into the parade, and hastily form in 
two lines, facing the barracks, which face each 
other, not ruins now, but grim and stately they 
stand — east, Avest and south — with a balcony on 
a line with the second floor, across the front of each. 



6o TiCONDEROGA. 

The gray of the May morning is turning into 
crimson, and the chimney tops are penciled with 
gold, as the loud huzzas of the Green Mountain 
men wake the echoes of the old fortress. A sentry 
makes a pass at one of Allen's officers. Like a 
gleam of light the sword of the leader describes a 
circle in the air, and descends on the head of the 
rash man ; but the fierce flash of anger that gave 
fury to the blow is tempered with mercy, and 
turns it aside in its descent. The musket falls to 
the ground, and the frightened soldier begs for 
life, which Allen grants, demanding to be shown 
where the commandant sleeps. He is directed to 
a stairway that leads up to the gallery of the west 
line of barracks, and up this he goes, while the' 
sound of crashing doors break on the ears of the 
half-awakened garrison. When near the south end 
of the building he thumps loudly on a door with 
the hilt of his heavy sword. Captain De La Place 
appears with astonishment on his face, and his 
small clothes in his hands, while his young wife 
stands tremblingly behind him. He has no time 
to parley, for the giant form of the Yankee leader 
towers up before him, demanding the surrender by 
authority higher than he had ever dreamed ; he 
hasn't even time to find out whether Allen is duly 
commissioned or not. A man is never wholly a 
man with his boots off; so what can a poor little 



Ethan Allen. 6i 

British officer, with only one garment on, do, but 
surrender when that great sword is suspended 
threateningly above his head. The order is given, 
the garrison parades w^ithout arms, and the rising 
sun shines on the first English prisoner of the revo- 
lution. 

But where is that gold-laced, duly commis- 
sioned brain w^hich contributed so much to the 
success of the enterprize, " without whom the expe- 
dition possibly might have failed?" If Arnold 
entered first, as he claims, why did the sentry at 
the wicket gate pay that delicate little attention to 
Allen instead of him ? Bancroft says of Allen : 
" Placing himself at the head of the center file, 
Arnold keeping emulously at his side, he marched 
to the gate." 

In a late work on Lake George the author quotes 
a part of the above, but in such a manner that the 
reader is left in doubt, while he rather inclines to 
the opinion that Alien is the emulous individual 
referred to. 

Imagine for a moment the stupendous Benedict 
sweeping majestically onward, with the little Ver- 
monter trotting emulously along at his side. Ar- 
nold claims, in his report to the committee on 
safety, that he was " the first who entered and took 
possession of the fort ;" probably in the same man- 
ner that he took command of the men at Castleton, 
6 



62 TiCONDEROGA. 

concerning which Bancroft says, when Arnold 
claimed command by virtue of the commission 
given him by this same committee, it " was disre- 
garded, and the men unanimously elected Ethan 
Allen their chief." 

"Arnold's bravery was never questioned.'* 
Neither was his assurance ; but the position that 
he occupied on this occasion seems to have been 
that of a sort of ornamental figure-head — a mili- 
tary necessity, in shape of a magnificently gotten 
up uniform, which would have answered every 
purpose if the occupant had been dropped out 
somewhere on the road and lost. 

But, to return once more to the ruins of to-day. 
We cross the parade, which is about fifty paces 
long, and twenty-two broad, to the south-west 
corner ; pass through the alley, out over the fallen 
bomb-proof room, down into the ditch, and, cross- 
ing at the left of the west bastion, go up the 
inclined plane (which was the entrance and sally- 
port), toward the north, noticing that the walls lap, 
one past the other, hke those of a snail-shell, the 
inleading path circhng around until it enters the 
parade on the south. Beside the natural defenses 
on this unexposed side a narrow wall was con- 
sidered sufficient protection. Toward the west the 
surface of the promontory breaks suddenly away, 
descending nearly a hundred feet in its slope to the 



A Tradition. 63 

water's edge. That ditch, in which stands the 
great, wavy ehn, is said to have been a covered 
way to the lake. Alders and thorn-trees grow on 
the hillside ; the red-plumed sumachs press up the 
steep, and clinging ivy, mounting upward, where 
an enemy could not hope to climb, covers the gray 
rocks with a robe of living green. Across the val- 
ley is Mount Defiance, sloping gently to the north, 
up which, on that anniversar}' prospective, many 
years ago, Burgoyne's men went, dragging the 
heavy cannon which greeted St. Clair, as he looked 
toward its summit, the morning after. 

Of the many traditions that cluster around the 
place we will repeat but one — found in Cook's 
^' Ticonderoga," and apparently well authenticated: 
An Indian girl, of remarkable beauty, was confined 
in this fortress by one of the French officers. Fright- 
ened by his coarse attention, her life became a con- 
tinual torture, and escape at any price was prefer- 
able to remaining there in his power. Walking, by 
compulsion, with him one night upon the western 
wall, preferring death to dishonor, she sprang 
away, over the giddy parapet, meeting her death 
upon the rocks below, but with the wild spirit, as 
it left the mangled, bleeding form, went up a savage 
cry for vengeance, that descended, swift and sure 
on the head of him who had driven her across the 
dark river. 



64 TiCONDEROGA. 

Seated here, on the western wall, of a summer 
afternoon the mind is entranced, and the spirit held 
captive, by the exquisite beauty of the scene. What 
harmonious combinations of strength and delicacy 
in the brilliant, rocky foreground, and dreamy, ten- 
der distance ; what sparkling bits of light, of broad, 
sweet shadow, down in the depths of that radiant 
sea of haze, out of which gleams glittering gems, 
and bits of fallen sky. The sun, sinking behind the 
wooded summit of Mount Defiance, pencils long 
lines of gold through an atmosphere of misty white, 
tipping the tree tops with light, while the hillside, 
sloping toward us, is resting all in cool, gray 
shadow. The river comes Avinding down through 
reedy flats, and patches of bright and sombre green, 
under the long bridge, stretching away across to 
the south, past the belt of graceful elms and clumps 
of alders that fringe the meadoAv, over which a flock 
of sheep are wending their slow way homeward, 
nipping, here and there, a tender bit of grass as 
they go. 

The trees cast long shadows across the meadow, 
lengthening out toward us, until overtaken and 
absorbed by that of the mountain. Slowly the last 
crirmson ray retreats before the advancing shadows ; 
slowly it climbs the steep hillside, glorifying the 
rocks, shining among the thorn-apples, lingering in 
the masses of dark green, outlining their shadowy 



Good Night. 6$ 

forms, with edges of light, rests lovingly upon 
the sumacs, whose brilliant plumes glow with an 
added fire, then burning a moment on the grey 
wall, die out, while the shining bars rise up higher 
and higher, and streaming away out over our heads 
across the valley to the east, kiss the summits of 
the distant mountains good night, and mount 
upward into the world of light from whence they 
came. 

As the shadows of night come down over us, 
the twitter of little birds settling to rest is heard ; 
the circling night hawk, with his lonesome cry, 
comes sweeping past ; the voice of the whippoor- 
will is in the thicket ; the cricket chirps among the 
stones ; the sound of waves plashing on the beach 
is borne faintly on the odor-laden air ; a monoto- 
nous song comes up from the swamp, and the 
m3^riad voices of a summer night all blend together 
in inexpressible harmon}^, while one by one the 
eternal stars come out and look pityingly down 
on the dim old walls and darkling battlements of 
Ticonderoga. 



iH4Mf lAIl if 14M11I 



''VERMONT," 
"ADIRONDACK," - 
"UNITED STATES," 
"OAKES AMES," (Ferry) 



Captain WILLIAM H. FLAGG 
" WM. ANDERSON 
" GEO. RUSHLOW. 
" B. J. HOLT. 



Wonday, 

Ttwsdny, - 
Wcfliu'uday 
Thiirsdiiy, - 
Friday, 
Saturday, ■ 



Monday, 

Tuesday, 

Wednesday, 

Thursday, 

Friday, 

Saturday, 



SUMMER ARRANGEMENT 

BAIT BdA.^® 

NORTH. 
- ADIRONDACK. 



ZTNITED STATES. 

- VERSION I. 

TIN IT ED STATES. 

- ADIROSDAi K. 

UNITED STATES. 

NORTH. 
YEKMOXT. 
ADIUOXDACK. 
AIUKOXDACK. 
TKHMOXT. 
VEUMOXT. 
- Xcne. 



1878. 



SOUTH. 
VERMONT. 
ADIRONDACK. 
ADIROy HACK. 
VERMONT. 
VERMONT, 
ADIRONDACK. 



SOUTH. 
UXITED STATES. 
VEKMOXT. 
UXITEI) STATES. 
ADIUOXDACK. 
UXITED STATES. 
Xone. 



oon^n^zBCTionNTS. 

WHITEHAX.!.,— R. andS. E. K. TICONnEKOGA,— Stages, and Steam- 
erg through Lake George. BURLINGTON,— Vt. Central R. R. PORT 
KENT,— Stages for Keeseville and the Adirondacks. PEATTSBUKGH, 
— N. Y. and Canada R. R. ROUSE'S POINT,— O. & L. C. and Grand 
Trunk Railroads. 



DAY BOAT — (Gr)iNG South) — Leaves Rouse's Point on the arriviil 
of train fr)n. Montreal and Ogdensbur<y, 8.15 a, m., breakfast on 
board; Phittsburgli, (ferry) 8.00 a. m.; Port Kent, 8.45 a. m.; arrive 
at Biirliniilon, 10.45 a. m.; Ticonderoga, 2.30 p. m.; Whiteliall, 4.45; 
Saratoga,' (via R. R.) 6.35; Albany, 8.30 p. m.; New York, 6.00 a. m. 

NIGHT BOAT— (Going South)— Leaves Rouse's Point on the arrival 
of trains from Montreal and Ogdensburg 5.40 p. m., supper on board; 
l^lattsburgh, 7.45 P. M.; Port Kent, 8.45 p. m.; arrive at Burlington, 
9.30 p. m.; Ticonderoga, 2.30 A. m.; AYhitehall, 5.45 A. M.; Saratoga, (via 
K K.) 7.45 A. M ; Albany, 9.45 a. m.; New York, 2.30 p. M. 

DAY l^OAT — (Going North) — Leaves Whitehall on arrival of trains 
frcMii New York, Troy, Albany .and Saratoga, 10.45 a. m., dine on 
board, and arrive at Tieonderog-a, 12,45; Burlingtou, 5.00; Port Kent. 
5 -iO; Plutt>burgh 7 00 Rouse's Point, 9.00; St. Johns, (via R. R.) 10.00; 
.Montreal, 11.00 P M 

NIGHT BOAT— (Going North)— Leaves Whitehall on arrival of 
trains from New York, Troy, Albany and Saratoga, 8.20 p. m.; supper 
on boivrd, and arrive at Ticonderoira, 10.15 p. m.; Burlington, 3.00 a. m.; 
i'ort Kent, 3.40; Plattsburgh, 5.00; Rouse's Point, 7.00; St. Johns, (via 
H. R ) 8.30; Mottreal, 10.00; Malone, 10.07; Potsdam, n.35 A. m.; 
Ogdcnsburg, 12.35 p. m. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Ego ; 3 

" Off for Lake George," 6 

Glen's Falls : 

The village, hotels, falls, caves, etc 9 

On the Plank : Our party 16 

Pond Lillies 20 

The Half-way House 21 

Williams Monument 25 

Bloody Pond 26 

Arrival at the Lake 29 

Lake George : 

Discovery, name, some information, references, etc. 30 

Lo ! the poor Indian 32 

Caldwell, hotels, etc 37 

Crosbyside 41 

Old Fort William Henry •. . . 43 

The Garrison 44 

Fort 'George : An adventure 45 

The Historian Rises to Explain 48 

Topographical 50 

Battle of Lake George 51 

Vaudreuil's expedition 53 

Capture of Fort William Henry 54 

The massacre 55 

Ringing the changes 56 

Steamboats — past and present 57 

Small boats 59 

Fishermen, their terms, information, etc 60 

Game laws 60 

Excursions 61 

Table of distances 62 

Down the Lake : 

Tea Island 64 

Diamond Island 66 



68 Contents. 

Down the Lake — (Concluded) : Page, 

The Coolidge House 67 

" Alpha, Delta, Phi " 68 

Kattskill Bay, hotels, etc 69 

Dome Island 70 

Recluse Island 71 

Bolton 73 

The Mohican House 75 

The Bolton House, others 'j'j 

Church of St. Sacrament 79 4|^ 

From Shore to Shore : Shelving Rock 80 

Fourteen Mile Island 81 

Personal 82 

Hen and Chickens,Huckleberry and Refuge Islands, 83 

Shelving Rock Falls 84 

The Narrows 85 

Through the Narrows 86 

Black Mountain, "As You Were Island " Z6 

The Harbor Islands ; Parker's Expedition Zj 

Epicurean 88 

Captain Sam as a Sailor 90 

The Deer's Leap 92 

The Elephant 93 

Hulett's Landing 94 

The Bosom 95 

Sabbath Day Point 96 

Hague loi 

Anthony's Nose , 102 

Rogers' Slide 103 

Prisoners' Isle 104 

" Good bye," 106 

Appendix 107 

The hotels, their situation, attractions, accommo- , 

dations, terms, etc 109 

Steamboats and stages, their officers, fares, time 

tables, etc., for 1873 114 

Probabilities 115 



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